MYSTERIES OF THE TRAIL-MARKER TREES,
by William McClain
Passing into History
A bur oak trail-marker tree stood along the Ottawa Trail in Ford County for many years. The old bur pointed to the northwest, along the course of the trail and directly at two other strangely shaped burs that stood side by side in the next section of land. The old bur eventually died, and its two companions fell to the chainsaw when the pasture was cleared and plowed for corn and soybeans.
A bur oak marker tree once stood near the Edward's Trace on Elkhart Hill. This trail, named after Governor Ninian Edwards, went from Cahokia to Peoria, the site of a major Peoria Indian village. Vestiges of this trail still remain on Elkhart Hill.
Trail-marker trees were once relatively common in Winnetka in Cook County along what is known as the "North Shore Trails." Over 100 were present here in 1920, but many have fallen and few, if any, remain. As late as 1975, marker trees were still present in Kenilworth in Lake County farther north. Some believe that these trees guided Native Americans from Lake Michigan to villages, and others may have guided travelers through the portage around the south end of Lake Michigan.
Although trail-marker trees are historically and culturally significant, apparently few were ever given names. One possible exception is the tree once present along a Sauk trail in Rock Island County that led to Black Hawk's village. It became known as the Lincoln Tree after Abraham Lincoln passed by it with the militia in 1832 on his way to the Black Hawk War. This tree was located on a point on a bluff and was described as old, ill formed, and scarred by numerous wagons that had passed by it. It remained a few years after the war, but was eventually grubbed out to make room for a potato patch.
While many have been lost, a few living marker trees remain in Illinois. One still stands on a high bluff in Adams County and another stands alone in a Menard County pasture. Consider yourself very fortunate and privileged if you get to see one. Despite their rarity and historical and cultural significance, little effort has been made to protect and document them. They are among the last living things from the period of Native American occupancy in Illinois.
Scholars continue to debate the origins and uses of these unusually shaped trees. It might have been possible to solve some of the mystery early in the last century or in the 1800s, but now it is far too late. The failure to reach a consensus regarding trail-marker trees only adds to the mystery. Perhaps this debate will subside as the last vestiges of these old trees fall and fade from our consciousness. It is unfortunate, but these trees have been passing silently into history, taking their messages with them. Though they have been present among us for well over 200 years, it appears that we will soon be left with only wonder. There is no one left to read the messages of the trees, not even those that once hoped to return.
William McClain is an adjunct research associate in botany at the Illinois State Museum in Springfield. He serves as a member of The Illinois Steward Advisory Board.
Natural Occurrence or Caused by Humans?
Suppose you find a tree that is old enough to be a trail-marker tree-possibly made by either early pioneers or Native Americans. How can you tell if your find is merely an anomaly of nature or if humans had a hand in its making?
When the tip of a young oak is pinned down, either by nature or humans, the sapling is usually bent over beginning at the base and is stressed in a more or less continuous arc. In contrast, some trail-marker trees have a sharp bend some feet up from the base. As the tree grows and ages, this bend may become less distinct. Could this characteristic bend be the result of putting a "set" in the sapling by applying substantial force at that point? According to Ritzenthaler, "It seems safe to say that when a tree bears a right or acute angular jog of the trunk beginning several feet above the base, it is most likely a trail-marker tree. It is impossible, however, to determine whether it was the work of Indian or white man, unless the tree is of sufficient age to rule out the white man."
You cannot rely solely on size to determine the age of a marker tree. Because of their distorted shapes, they sometimes grow slowly, and their ages are often underestimated. To be sure, a qualified person should use an increment borer to obtain a core sample so annual growth rings can be counted.
Ritzenthaler also said that natural occurrences can be ruled out when a series of such trees are found at intervals along a course, and all point to the same destination. During his time, such sequential displays of trees could still be found for study. Now, such apparent examples live only in memory.
